Thursday, 6 June 2013

Simple Tunisian Crochet Gloves

If you follow me on Instagram you'll know that lately I've been pretty addicted to Tunisian crochet. This is a crochet technique that involves putting stitches on the hook in one row, and then removing them in the next. It's really simple, and although it takes a bit more time to work up than regular crochet, it produces such a lovely warm piece!

This pattern is great for beginners, and so I'll write it how a beginner would understand it. Writing things in this way was so helpful to me when I was learning, so I hope this will be easy to follow.

You will need:
- 4.5 Tunisian/Afghan crochet hook (as we are using DK weight yarn it is recommended to use a size or two above what you'd normally use. So, if you're using sock or chunky weight for your gloves, keep this in mind!)
- 100g DK weight wool (here I've used Stylecraft Special DK)
- Darning needle
- Ruler

Firstly, there are some measurements you'll need to make:

A = Your wrist span + 2cm. This will tell you roughly how many chain stitches to make at the beginning. This is only roughly, though, because once you've done a few rows you may find it will be too big/small for your wrist and go back and make adjustments.

B = How long you want the cuff to be.

C = The length from your wrist to where your thumb is joined to your palm. This will decide how long the widest part of the glove needs to be.

D = The entire length of your wrist to roughly the tops of your knuckles. This is flexible, and will depend on how you like your gloves to sit - I like mine just above my knuckles, but you may prefer yours below if you're going to be moving your fingers a lot in these.

Here are my measurements, for reference:
A = 8cm, B =10.5cm, C = 5.5cm, D = 8.5cm

So, in the pattern, where you see my measurements in this font, be sure to swap in your measurement! The measurement needed will be in brackets.

To start, I suggest watching these videos: how to start and the basic stitch, how to increase stitches, and how to decrease. Note there are two ways to decrease - you can do either! I use the second one that is demonstrated in this video.

In the case of increasing, you will need to use the increases described in the video at 0:38 and at 3:18.

Ready? Good!

Step 1: My (A) measured 8cm and I chained 32 to begin with. If your A is less than mine chain less, or if it's bigger than 8cm, chain a few more.

Step 2: Work the basic Tunisian stitch into each chain. Continue to do the forward (pulling up the loops) and reverse (removing the loops) rows until your piece measures (B) 10.5cm. End on a reverse.

Step 3: Now increase by 1 at the beginning of the row (shown here at 0:38), then pull up loops along the row as you would normally, and then increase by 1 at the end of the row (shown here at 3:18). Do the reverse row as normal.

Step 4: We're going to be increasing again, so: increase by 1 at the beginning of the row (shown here at 0:38), then pull up loops along the row as you would normally, and then increase by 1 at the end of the row (shown here at 3:18). Do the reverse row as normal.

Step 5: Increase one more time: increase by 1 at the beginning of the row (shown here at 0:38), then pull up loops along the row as you would normally, and then increase by 1 at the end of the row (shown here at 3:18). Do the reverse row as normal.

Step 6: Now work the basic Tunisian stitch until your piece measures (C) 5.5cm. End on a reverse.

Step 7: Now we are going to decrease by 2 stitches. To do this, decrease (shown here) by 1 stitch near the beginning of the row - in either the first or second stitch. Then pull up loops as normal until you reach near the end, and decrease by 1 stitch there too. Do the reverse row as normal.

Step 8: Now work the basic Tunisian stitch until the piece measures (D) 8.5cm from the very first increase row to the top, or if you like, until the whole piece measures (B + D) 19cm. End on a reverse.

(It is now up to you how you bind off - I like to leave the stitches how they are and just bind off as you would with normal crochet, but you could single crochet into each of the loops on the last row!)

Step 9: Now fold the piece in half and sew up, remembering to not to sew from the row in step 3 up to the row in step 7 as this will be the thumb hole!

And there you go! Make two of these and you'll have yourself a warm yet not restrictive pair of fingerless gloves :)

Of course, if you have any questions or would like a photo tutorial, please comment and I'd be happy to help!


  1. I love these! I have not tried Tunisian yet, but I love fingerless gloves. What a joy it will be to learn a new stitch and have a cool pair of these when I'm done. Thanks so much for the free pattern!!!!

  2. I'm a noob to Tunisian crocheting, which I'm enjoying btw...but I keep getting stuck on the width. Shouldn't it be double the width of one's wrist since we have to fold it over and stitch up?

  3. When you measure the wrist and you get 8 cm how do you determine the number of chains is 32? .

  4. Is the 32stichs your stich guage X inches? How do you get 32 from 8?

  5. I was looking for a pattern like this and am so happy I found yours. Your very clear instructions on sizing were very helpful. I had to convert to inches so lots of confusion but I figured it out. The hand diagram helped. Also your video about increasing was very easy to understand. You gave me the confidence to try this pattern. Thank you

  6. Hi,

    In case the top commenter or anyone else was wondering: Mathematically it seems she's doing 4 stitches per cm for measurement A as 32/8(cm)=4st. Hope it helps too anyone's hands or wrists are have a more extreme size variation from the listed 8cm. If you have a different gauge due to tension or yarn, best to swatch first as always (not that I ever do!).


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